You may have read my article about solo sailor Andrea Lodolo lately. The backdrop of this story is every bit as good as this one: The lovely location of Camaret-sur-Mer. When I travelled to this place, I admit, I was wondering why Andrea chose to have his training base set up here, not in Brest, which is just kind of vis-a-vis across the Bay. Much better to reach: It takes a 1.45 hours bus trip from Brest to reach this small viallge.
But once I had arrived, I instantly understood: This place is just magical! Being here just as the summer was in its last nice and warm weeks, the sea looked just as tempting. Caribbean feeling. A strong breeze came in from the Atlantic Ocean, not far from here, passing Ile Ouessant, the entry to the English Channel lies gaping open to the East, the vastness of the Biscay to the West. When I was here, I sailed two times into Rade de Brest: Leaving Camaret to my starboard side, never even considered mooring here. And as much as I love the rugged charme of Brest, this was a mistake!
Two harbors: Your choice
Camaret-sur-mer has everything a sailor wants – apart from really skilled technical support or a large supermarket in walking distance. If you want to spend some lovely days and experience some lush, pristine and unique „French“ days, this is the place to come! There is a large anchorage just to port side when entering Camaret. And two basins.
The western basin may be a bit more protected against swell but is more „reserved“ for the locals. You will find the usual outboard engine fishing vessels and some smaller daycruisers here. But the middle of the pontoons I identified also larger sailing vessels from outsiders, so I is possible to bring your yacht here. Most skippers however enter „Port Vauban“, which is the eastern basin.
It has a large stone breakwater that protects the port from a northern swell but it is completely open to the East. So if there is a strong Easterly blowing, it might get a bit rough in here. The two basins are separated by the vauban tower, which is a UNESCO World Cultural Heritage site. This little fortress works as a breakwater for Easterlies and protects the inner harbor just perfectly.
Sailing to Camaret-sur-mer
If you happen to sail by, no matter if you are just leaving the English Channel or complete your Biscay crossing in need for a little replenishment, you enter the the bay area and there it is, right on the starboard side. Before entering the narrow channel that leads to Brest, Camaret-sur-mer kind of disguises itself as it seems. When you come here in summer, you may directly go to Port Vauban.
The whole harbor is made of swimming pontoons which are tied to large ground stones with thick chains and also steel piles rammed into the seabed. The entrance is very narrow, just a green light to the right and no (!) light to the left. Make sure you have your searchlight ready when arriving in pitch darkness. The harbor is said to offer 250 berths both on fingers and broadside dockings, visitor´s pontoons are clearly marked. Large vessels up to 25 meters will be tied to the large pontoon that marks the boundary to the open bay.
More to the inside you will find berths on fingers or broadside moorings. Depending on the wind, you may just tie up your boat over night and proceed to your assigned berth when the harbormaster has get you one. The Capitainerie is located in a small building just next to the tower, the guys are checking upon newcomers multiple times a day with the dinghy. If you need help when mooring or casting off (for example in strong winds), you may request their dinghy tug services.
Amenities in Port Vauban – Camaret-sur-Mer
Be aware that the Port Vauban is a marina that is prone to a large tidal range and as such, watch your draft! As for the „inner“ basin, the recommended draft should not be shallower than 1.50 meters, the Port Vauban is said to offer a safe depth of 2.70 to 6 meters, depending on the location. If you are not sure, arrive here at high tide and ask for advice.
The pontoons have shore power and fresh water. There is a Diesel fuel station nearby. Other than that, the marina is kind of sparsely equipped. No marina WiFi (at least not when I was there). Some of the pontoons are damaged and you should definitely look out for fishing lines when entering or leaving the harbor.
The bathrooms are located in the basement of the fortress. This is a kind of adventure and definitely something special, but far away from a nice 5-star experience. When I was there, mobile showers and WC-containers had been set up right next to the big red tower, maybe you check those out.
The whole infrastructure could really need an investor willing to refurbish, renew and maybe „fixing“ the place. In large swell, the individual pontoons are moving a lot and you should be very attentive if not alert when you come here in a storm or in strong winds. The large swell will make the boats move around a lot, the pontoons are shifting in relation to each other. In this case, going to Brest may be the safer choice.
Menhirs, seafood and an awe-inspiring tidal range
But. But! Camaret-sur-mer is truly a magical place! I fell in love with this little village the minute I arrived. The large waterfront is home to a multitude of small restaurants. Offering seafood from plain Fish´n´chips-style to really nice (and expensive) cuisine, there are bars and a vibrating touristical hustle during daytime. Many tourists come here because of the nearby Menhirs.
Along the breakwater, the port authority had beached a handful larger fishing vessels which are falling apart, make for a perfect backdrop if you are a hobby photographer. What is also equally impressing is the immense difference in Camaret´s appearance in the tidal cycle: When in high tide, it looks as any other port village, but when the water leaves, it´s a completely different picture.
So, if you happen to sail by, consider a stopover in lovely Camaret-sur-mer. It´s really a very special place with an enchanting aura. If you do bot need special technical services or serious food-shopping to do, you will quickly see for yourself what I mean. A place like disconnected from the rest of the world, rough, beautiful, always changing but staying the same as well. I am sure, one day, I will come here not by bus again, but by boat!
My overall assessment of Camaret-sur-Mer / Port Vauban: 8 out of 10
You might as well find interesting to read these related articles:
All marina reviews
Crossing the Bay of Biscay to Brest
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