My hometown of Luebeck is not just one of the most beautiful toutist destinations of Germany, the world capitol of marzipan and the old founding city of the German Hanse, it is a true treasure box for maritime history and heritage. Sometimes even surprisingly and with deep impact, as I had learned last weekend.
The picturesque medieval old town of Luebeck, which in essence is an island, is also called the „City of the seven Towers“. These seven towers are big chirches, among which one is a huge cathedral. The unimaginary had happened here: A civic society, not the clergy nor the aritocracy, had accumulated enough riches to being able to afford to build these huge stone churches! Unseen before in medieval Europe. One of these huge churches is Saint Jacob.
Discovering the PAMIR lifeboat by chance.
Together with my girlfriend and my kids I was roaming the old town last weekend. Just strolling around in a nice autumn afternoon. As Saint Jacob was the last of them „seven towers“ I hadn´t seen up until that day, we entered. I am not a believer but I understand the importance of knowing our Christian heritage, the foundations of our culture. Churches are interesting places though and so we wandered around, admiring the immense size of that building – dating back to ist founding year in 1334.
As we had almost completed a full round, I saw the bow of a small dinghy or rowboat in one of the small side aisles. I knew that Saint Jacob is santified and dedicated to all seamen and fishermen, so we went into that small room. And I am so happy we did by chance, because a true treasure is located here: A real relic, seafaring history for sure. It is the lifeboat of the ill-fated PAMIR, I couldn´t believe my eyes!
The tragic story of the PAMIR
She was one of the last big sailing vessels without even an engine engaged in commercial shipping. As part of the legendary „Flying P-Liner“-fleet of the Hamburg-based Laisz shipping company, PAMIR had been laid down in 1905 and lived through some 50 years of active, exciting service. In 1932 she won the famous Great Grain Race, survived two World Wars and had been one of the last majestic tall ships in regular service.
On September 21st in 1957 she had been struck by a Hurricane off Azores Islands. The majority of the crew, icluding all Officers and the Captain drowned. Up until today the reason for this loss is not fully clear. As PAMIR was able to send a couple of distress signals and SOS, at first, around 30 of the 86 total crewmen managed to safe their souls, many of them into the already severley damaged lifeboats. Many drowned. Some drank saltwater and swam off into the blue, hallucinating. Later reports from rescue planes mention body parts on the surface, suggesting another horrific detail of this tragedy involvonmg sharks. In the end, only six crewmembers managed to survive.
The official verdict of the tribunal concluded that the sheer force of the Hurricane would have sunk her anyway and that no human error is to be blamed. Yet other versions of not properly stowed cargo, the additional stowing of grain in the storm-ballast tanks (which otherwise could have been flooded and maybe stabilized the ship) or very late reefing of the ship´s sails are circulating. The lawsuit may also have suffered from procedural errors such as no square rigged tallship-experienced expert had been part of the jury.
Unspeakable tragedy: A silent witness
Liferaft number 2 of the PAMIR is the center of the small chapel within Saint Jacob church. The small vessel, so it is written on a memorial plate nearby, at first contained 22 survivors. Already taking on water, severley battered by the relentless seas, these young men must have endured unimaginable pain and suffering, fear and agony. Many of them left the boat, died silently and slipped away or turned crazy. Only one single man from rowboat number 2 survived.
I´ve seen many memorials and also many relics. Touching the wooden coamings of rowboat number 2, seeing the scratchmarks and damage of the hull is touching my deepest soul. As a sailor myself I can only try to grasp what those people had to endure before finally being relieved and taken by the seas. This chapel does not need any pictures nor videos or animations. This wreckage of a lifeboat talks louder, explains better and develops a much tighter grip than anything else could do.
Engraved into the granite floor of the chapels: The names of the dead seamen. Starting with the Captain and the Officers, as their rank is put next to each name, soon the names become „young“. By far most of the drowned are „Schiffsjungen“, meaning „ship´s boys“. These were young cadets between the age of 16 and 18. I stood there with my own kids who are much younger, but still, as a father I cannot make myself think of a greater pain than lossing my own children.
I wish for my kids that they go out themselves, discover the world, maybe by sailing, or any other means. I would be happy seeing them traveling, meeting people in many countries, taste the foods of the world and ride the waves of adventure. But this chapel, this stricken lifeboat which was only able to provide for the rescue of one single man, reminds me of the dangers the mighty oceans pose. To not even have a grave to return to an mourn. It´s so sad.
In any case, the loss of PAMIR and a near-loss of her sistership PASSAT – like it is the case with so many of them great tragedies – paved the way for tighter rules and safety procedures at sea. At least, the death of so many people sparked a development which lead to more safety – a faint comfort. This little, heart-wrenching chapel within Saint Jacob should be on your list if you ever come and visit Luebeck (LINK), paying tribute to the drowned of PAMIR and all other ships, in Luebeck´s seafarer´s church.
You might as well find interesting to read:
The glorious good old times – aboard mighty tallship PEKING
New York City gems: The maritime heritage of the world´s capital
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