The German Baltic Sea shores are varied and interesting. Regarding the natural beauty of the coastline, especially the parts near the former border between the East and West is particularly interesting since on the Eastern part. During the life cycle of the GDR, this region was off limits for most of the population, naturally, density of human settlement was sparse. It´s still perceptible today: Nature reserves, breathtaking empty beaches, little coves and inlets dominate.
Other than the region around the Islands of Ruegen or Usedom, this region is a hidden gem. There is a small village, called Boltenhagen, that sits on the very tip of a bay bar, the so-called “Weisse Wiek”, loosely translated into “White Hook”. Not far from the next bigger town, which in this case is Wismar (or my home town of Luebeck to the West). Trying to develop this nature-rich part of Northern Germany, a 5-star marina has been built here. Why? The white hook offers a some really fantastic recreational amenities, such as a long, stretched, beautiful white beach.
How to sail to “Weisse Wiek”
Sailing to “Yachtwelt” Weisse Week, which means “Yachting World”, is a bit tricky. The entrance to the large Mecklenburg Bay is protected by a large, all encompassing sandbank which can reduce draft to a mere meter. There is only one small navigable (and buoyed) waterway negotiating the shoals. One must enter or leave via this small bottleneck. Since Wismar is still an active port, Feeder-ships and mid-sized freighters may pass as well.
Once inside, your course will turn due south to avoid hitting the shoals and after some miles back West. The “White Hook” marina is easily identifiable from afar: Not unlike the next marina on the rope of pearls to the East, Marina Kuehlungsborn or the “Hohe Düne”/”High Dune” of Rostock, this one also is a big luxury hotel complex with an adjoining marina. The houses have 2 stories max and form a nice, shiny white backdrop against the forest of masts of the boats. The marina is protected by a large breakwater which may be entered from the South.
Mooring & Demurrage in “Weisse Wiek” Marina Boltenhagen
The marina is in great shape and appears brand new. Well kept, I shall say because it´s not so new any more. Four large pontoons with some 300 berths of which most are rented to owners where one can nearly always find a “green” one to land your boat. Also, a former fishing harbor to the right hand side with a large jetty for big boats of up to 25 meters, max draft 4.5 meters is a great refuge when wind is too strong. When I was there, I´ve seen a bi-ass Oyster mooring here next to two schooners.
Normal yachts will choose a berth in the southern part of the marina. I went to go alongside provisionally, went to the harbormaster (which is quite a distance to walk) to go through registration procedure and negotiated a berth near the shore. I was a bit puzzled to being billed 30 Euros demurrage for one night, for a boat of barely 9 meters this is very expensive. Accordingly, prices will be equally high for bigger yachts. Well, it´s “5 stars certified”, so I guess that´s what you pay.
Bathroom facilities & Amenities
After a long stretch of sailing we all know how much of a relief a long hot shower could be. For me, using the bathroom was at that day a top-priority. But instead of telling you, dear reader, about how much of a 5-star-toilet White Hook offers, I just can´t. Why? Well, even after three complete rounds of walking the whole waterfront from one side to the other, I couldn´t find the bathrooms. I just couldn´t! These weren´t marked on the plans and I was then too late to ask because the harbor master´s office was closed. Well, that´s a point subtracted – not a very good signposting policy for a marina like this.
Other than that, White Hook is a real treat and a little gem indeed: The facilities of the marina are in perfect shape: Pontoons, cleats, fresh water and shore power docking stations all around. The view is very nice, depending on where you have your berth, you can choose between high life and party (always live music on the waterfront) or the quieter regions. From the water-side berths one may get a really great view outside onto the Mecklenburg Bay area with Island Poel vis-à-vis.
Dining out and resting one´s Oars
Weisse Wiek is a quiet place. Not very crowded. Pleasant. You can enjoy a very relaxing day here, even if hundreds of tourists and visitors stroll the waterfront, enjoying a cone of ice-cream or a Bratwurst. Three or four restaurants from rustic Northern German food to sophisticated Vienna-style Café invite to take a seat and enjoy the sun. Leaving the marina to the south the large White Hook Beach with traditional Baltic beach chairs is so tempting to spend some hours laying down and enjoy the warm sun. Although white and shiny indeed, the sand is much rougher with large stones, much rougher than expected and not as fine as the beaches further East towards Ruegen.
I enjoyed my sleepover in Weisse Wiek very much. The facilities are exemplary (bathrooms excluded since I couldn´t find them). The atmosphere is relaxed, very quiet regarding the fact that it´s a tourist spot. Sailing here may also help fix problems, a dedicated specialized yard with travel lift and own big workshop offers technical help of all sorts. For me, starting in Luebeck bay some 25 miles away, Weise Wiek was the perfect destination for a one-day-sailtrip “around the corner” and I will definitely be back soon.
My overall assessment of Weisse Wiek Harbour is 8 out of 10 points
Link to Weisse Wiek Website here